When people in Japan think of the flavors of autumn, one fish often comes to mind: Pacific saury, known as sanma in Japanese.
Grilled sanma with a little salt, served with rice and perhaps some grated daikon radish, is a classic Japanese autumn meal. It’s simple, delicious, and for a long time, it was an affordable fish that ordinary families could enjoy.
But things have changed.
From an Everyday Fish to Something Special
Sanma used to be one of those everyday foods that didn't cost much. You could buy a few fish, grill them at home, and enjoy a taste of autumn without spending too much money.
Unfortunately, catches have declined significantly over the years. As sanma has become harder to catch, prices have risen, and it no longer feels like the inexpensive fish it once was.
It's not necessarily a luxury fish in every shop, but when a familiar seasonal food becomes expensive, you start thinking twice before buying it.
And that's a little sad.
Why Are There Fewer Sanma?
There isn't just one reason for the decline.
Changes in ocean temperatures and currents have affected where sanma gather and migrate. Fish that once came closer to Japan are increasingly found farther offshore, making them more difficult and expensive for Japanese fishing boats to catch.
Changes in food availability may also be affecting their growth and survival.
Fishing pressure is another part of the picture. Japan has a long history of catching sanma, while Taiwan, China, and other countries also operate fisheries in the North Pacific. Competition over this shared resource makes international cooperation on sustainable fishing important.
Japan's own fishing practices are also worth examining. We shouldn't assume that one country is solely responsible for the decline. Ocean conditions, the size of the fish population, and fishing by multiple countries all need to be considered.
What About Sanma in Other Countries?
Sanma isn't just eaten in Japan.
Taiwan has an established sanma fishing industry, and the fish can be sold at relatively affordable prices in some local markets. China also catches sanma and sells it domestically.
In the United States, people can find sanma at some Japanese and Asian grocery stores, usually frozen, although fresh fish may be available seasonally in certain areas.
In Europe, sanma is less familiar as an everyday food, and the Japanese-style tradition of grilling it with salt isn't as widespread.
So, the same fish can have very different places in people's diets depending on where they live.
Will I Get to Enjoy This Autumn Treat More Often?
I still think of sanma as one of the foods that makes autumn in Japan special.
But when the price is high, I find myself buying it less often. Of course, prices change, and there are many reasons behind them. Still, it's disappointing when a seasonal treat that used to be easy to enjoy becomes something you have to think carefully about buying.
We can't control the ocean or bring fish populations back overnight. Sustainable fishing matters, and so does understanding what's happening to the marine environment.
But I hope sanma can once again become an affordable part of an ordinary autumn meal.
What about where you live? Are there seasonal foods that used to be cheap and common but have become expensive over the years? Or is there a particular fish that reminds you of autumn?
I'd love to hear about the seasonal foods in your part of the world!
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